On this site, you will find papercraft models of Pokémon which you can print out and build yourself, with just a pair of scissors and little bit of glue.

Each individual post on this site represents one Pokémon model. At the bottom of every post you'll find a description and building tips related to that particular model, plus a download link.

The Download links are either in A4 or Letter size, depending on which country you are from, and from either of these links, you will receive a ZIP or RAR file.

Within these files, you will find:
  • several PDFs which you can print directly out using Adobe Reader, and
  • a PDO file which can only be opened with Pepakura Viewer.

The PDO is your virtual 3d instruction manual.
From it you will be able to rotate the virtual model in any direction and see how each piece of the template corresponds with the next.

Sadly, Pepakura Viewer is a PC program, and does not operate on Apple Macs, without the use of a PC emulator (such as Boot Camp or Parallels).


Recommanded Programs:

Pepakura Viewer (PDO)

Adobe PDF reader (PDF)

Winzip (ZIP)

Winrar (ZIP & RAR)

Alzip (ZIP) Freeware

Freerar (RAR) Freeware


Options in Pepakura Viewer

To change the textures (colour):
  • Unpack the files from the model's download pack into a folder.
  • Open the PDO file in Pepakura Viewer.
  • In the "Setting" menu, select "Texture Setting ..."
  • Then click on "Specify Texture Image" and select the new texture (BMP, JPG, or PNG) located in the download file, and apply.
To print a template from Pepakura Viewer:
(Not alwys necessary since we usually include required PDFs)
  • In the "File" menu, select "Print" and follow the instructions from your printer.
  • You can also adjust the colour and thickness of the lines in the "Setting" menu, then select "Print Setting..."
To show the edge Ids
(numbers beside each tabs showing where the piece go. e.g.:
tab #43 glue to edge #43)
  • In the "View" menu, select "Show Edge Id".
  • You can also adjust the size of the number and where they appear (inside/outside) in the "Setting" menu, then select "Other Settings...", then "General Settings".
  • To Adjust, select "Place edge ID inside of face" and "Font size of Edge ID (pt)"
To add a colored border around the pieces.
(can reduce the appearance of "white lines" in a completed model)

  • In the "View" menu, select "Overflow Paint".
  • You can also adjust the size of the border or color the whole tabs (flaps) in the "Setting" menu, then select "Other Settings ...", then "General Settings"
  • To adjust, select "Paint flaps with neighboring face color instead of overflow paint" and input the desired amount with"Amount of Overflow Paint [_] mm".

Q: What kind of paper/glue do you use?

This is what we would recommend:

1. Use decent paper - (NOT regular 80gsm printer paper) find some that is no less than 120gsm in weight

2. A good pair of sharp scissors
eg: Honey Bee non-stick precision Scissors

3. An used-up ball point pen or craft stylus to score/emboss fold lines with
eg: Pergamano small ball stylus

4. A small (~15cm) metal ruler - metal doesn't get damaged or dinted like plastic.

5. Decent acid-free paper glue - importantly it needs to be fast setting
eg: Power Pritt Multipurpose Extra Strong Gel or Aleene's Original Tacky Glue

6. Tweezers - preferably non-stick

7. A tooth-pick (wooden cuticle stick) for getting into those hard to reach places

8. A craft knife/scalpel which has replaceable blades
eg: x-acto knife

9. A large self-healing cutting mat


Pro-tip - How to Build a Good-Looking Model:

1. Score/emboss the fold lines of the template piece before you cut it out of the card stock. Otherwise you'll end up trying to keep fiddly pieces of paper still with one hand while trying to score/emboss with the other - it never end well.

___________________ Solid Lines are for cutting

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Dashed Lines are for Mountain Folds

— - — - — - — - — - — - — - Dashed/Dotted Lines are for Valley Folds

2. If you chose to do a lined template, once you have embossed/scored and cut out the piece, DO NOT fold along the crease lines. Instead, just glue it as if it were completely unembossed/unscored. This way, you allow the paper to bend naturally along the lines you have created, and the result is a much smoother build

3. The only exception to the above "do-not-fold" rule are:
  • tabs, and
  • if you have a fold that creates an angle that is <45º.
4. If you choose to build a Lineless model, score/emboss the tablines out, fold them, and then glue as per normal. The result will be a smooth build without the clumsy, visible crease-lines. ------------------------- Q: Who are the members of Paperpokes and where do you all come from? A: The Paperpokes Team members are (in alphabetical order):
  • Brandon, USA, male
  • Lyrin, Italy, female
  • Paperbuff, USA, female
  • Pixel-Kakashi, Mexico, male
  • PMF, Canada, male
  • POdragon, USA, female
  • Skelekitty, Australia, female


Anonymous said...

ik this is old but for lineless i do score the regular score lines or not

Brandon said...

Parts 3 and 4 mention that pretty well:
3. The only exception to the above "do-not-fold" rule are:
tabs, and
if you have a fold that creates an angle that is <45º.
4. If you choose to build a Lineless model, score/emboss the tablines out, fold them, and then glue as per normal.

So personally, anything with a real sharp fold (something that won't glue very well without being folded), I would still score as the FAQ recommends. But generally if you can get by without folding (less sharp folds), it's worth doing so

Unknown said...

great thanks!

Unknown said...

how do I get rid of the ugly white lines when scoring dark colors?

Brandon said...

Scoring with a blade is often what creates white lines for folds - if you use a more dull object to score with (or even avoid scoring the line at all), you would avoid breaking the surface of the paper when folding.

Using a laserjet printer also has this issue - inkjets allow for more flexibility as far as folding/aesthetics go