21 November 2016

DUCKLETT



580 / DUCKLETT - Pokémon Papercraft
Name:
Ducklett
Type: Water/Flying
Species: Water Bird Pokémon
Height: 0.5 m (1'08")
Weight: 5.5 kg (12.1 lbs.)
Interesting Facts: Ducklett is light-blue, duckling-like Pokémon. It has two feathery tufts on its head that connect at the bottom, forming a V-shape. It has a darker blue, feathery underside which makes it appear as if it were in mid-moult. It has yellow, webbed feet and a small tail. Ducklett lives around ponds and rivers. It is a talented diver and can spray water from its feathers for self-defense. The foe is distracted by the spray, allowing Ducklett to escape.

THE PAPER MODEL
Height: 16.3 cm/6.4 in
Width: 12.3 cm/4.8 in
Depth: 11.9 cm/4.7 in
No. of Pages: 4
No. of Pieces: 34
Level: Medium
Designer: Brandon
Photo: Olber

NOTES: Follow the numbers, starting from the top down, closing at the bottom of the body and attaching the legs after. Be a bit careful with crest and the wings, and the rest should be pretty easy from there. EdgeID pdf included for reference as well.

Download: A4 / Letter

17 November 2016

ROWLET



722 / ROWLET - Pokémon Papercraft
Name: Rowlet
Type: Grass/Flying
Species: Grass Quill Pokémon
Height: 0,3 m (1′00″)
Weight: 1.5 kg (3.3 lbs.)
Interesting Facts: Rowlet is a small Pokémon, resembling an owl, with round body and two short legs. It is mainly brown with a white underside and facial disc. It has large black eyes and stubby beak, whose top part is white and the lower is orange. It has two leaves on the chest, arranged in a way so it resembles a bowtie. It also has leaves in the undersides of its wings and the tail. It is capable of rotating the head almost 180 degrees and has excellent night vision. It is able to fly silently and attack with powerful kicks.

THE PAPER MODEL
Height: 14.5 cm / 5.7 in
Width: 11.5 cm / 4.5 in
Depth: 11.7 cm / 4.6 in
Pages: 4
Pieces: 26
Level: Easy
Designer: Brandon
Photo: LuIS
NOTES: Start at the bottom of the body and close at the top of the head. Glue one feather at each side, starting at the front. The head can be rotated in any position you want, just glue the pieces above the ring composed of 14 and 15 in another position and follow with the rest of the pieces of the top of the head. The bowtie and the beak should be glued before the model is closed. Note that the bowtie doesn't rotate with the head. After building the feet, place them on a flat surface and apply glue to the body where they'll connect. If you want the model to stand like it's on the pdo and the pictures you'll need to place something bellow the tail to keep it still while the glue dries.

Download: A4 / Letter


14 November 2016

ELECTABUZZ



125 / ELECTABUZZ- Pokémon Papercraft
Name: Electabuzz
Type: Electric
Species: Electric Pokémon
Height: 1.1 m (3′07″)
Weight: 30.0 kg (66.1 lbs.)
Interesting Facts: Electabuzz is a slightly humanoid creature with a few feline traits. It is covered in yellow fur with black stripes; a large stripe on its chest is shaped like a lightning bolt. It has a long tail. There are three, clawed toes on its feet; two in front and one in back, while it has five fingers on each hand. Electabuzz has two sharp fangs and a pair of antennae with bulbous ends. In the dark, Electabuzz will glow a light blue with the electrical charge stored inside of it.

THE PAPER MODEL
Height: 23.7 cm / 9.3 in
Width: 25.3 cm / 10.0 in
Depth: 16.8 cm / 6.6 in
Pages: 6 (+3 for Drums)
Pieces: 62 (+9 for Drums)
Level: Medium-Hard
Designer: Brandon
Photo: Carnilmo
NOTES: Follow the numbers on the template. Build from head down, closing with the bottom of the body at the base of the legs. Be careful with the fingers, they can be a bit tricky. Drums and sticks are not required, but add a fun touch. Textures included for drums and Electabuzz, along with an alternate grey stripe texture.

Download: A4 / Letter

07 November 2016

Silhouette Cameo: Usage and First Impressions

So I recently got a Silhouette Cameo, and have started to go through the trials and tribulations of using it. This will both be a pros and cons list, as well as some suggestions for using it if you are also just starting out using a Cameo for Papercraft.

Starting off with the pros/cons list:
Pros
Cons
 Relatively fast and accurate 
Far less work intensive 
Makes clean up easier 
Allows for easy use of larger pieces/less split for parts 
Saves an incredible amount of time
 Can be tricky to setup the first time 
Needs specific Pepakura/Cameo Design settings to work optimally
Cutting mat is way too sticky on first use 
Requires good lighting 
Have to be careful removing pieces from mat


The big thing that makes or breaks the Silhouette Cameo is the settings it needs. 
Pepakura actually has a specific program and guide for porting your unfold from Pepakura into the Cameo design program, and it's pretty solid all around: 

The program is $15 to use the full version, so by no means does it break the wallet. The guide gets you going without any frilly settings (which in my opinion are necessary, but more on that later). The guide simply states what you need to start off opening the files in the design program, which is perfect to dive in and start fine tuning things. 
If we make packs with the files needed for use with the Cameo, they would not include a need for the Pepakura Cameo viewer - the files output from just using it forego the need for the program once they're exported. More on that later, too. 

Now here's where the new information comes in - my troubleshooting with the program has, in my opinion, found the best setting to use with this. 
The first thing, and possibly weirdest, is making the cutting mat "usable". Out of the package the cutting mat is exceedingly sticky, and absolutely will ruin a piece of paper if it's placed on the mat. I found this out by diving in with an extra print of the 6th page of the work in progress that is Camerupt, and it was an expected and necessary crash course. In this, I found out I neglected the Invert option of the Registration lines, and also learned the lighting was most definitely not suitable as well. My setup was over in a corner, with the only light being in the center of the room. 
The fix here was to take a scrap piece of paper and press it on the mat and pull it off repeatedly. This ruined the paper, but it took enough of the sticky layer of the mat off that it would hold the desired pages without ripping them when removed. I then setup a small desk lamp directly next to the Cameo, with the light pointed directly on the cutting area. And last but not least, I was sure to absolutely double check every single circled setting outlined in the PDF guide linked above. 
Another setting I never used, but some could find useful, is setting the blade to score pieces for folding when cutting. It's an option on by default in the Cut options in Cameo's Design program that I turned off by simply unselecting all of the non-black cut color options. 

MUCH BETTER. It still wasn't perfect by any means, but it produced a completely usable result on the second attempt. More fine tuned settings from here include changing the tab fill in Pepakura to the standard of overflow paint (tab fill is my default when cutting by hand, but overflow definitely helps more in this situation) and changing the Cameo Design "Cut" depth to be maxed for the selected paper option (this produces much cleaner cut pieces). Those 2 simple settings, which weren't mentioned there, are necessary to get the clean results that will keep me using my Cameo. While I have tested the cut setting to success, I have not yet tested the overflow paint setting - it seems a simple enough fix that it doesn't need particular testing just yet, though. Here's an example of why overflow paint is needed:
The edges come out with a bit of white without the overflow paint - easy fix for this one, I just have to use scissors to trim a few pieces, but definitely avoidable for future cuts. 

The pieces by default come off the mat curled, since the mat does still have to hold them on a bit, for example: 


In summary, modified options: 

~Take the stickiness off the mat before use by pressing a piece of scrap paper on and off repeatedly

~Use overflow paint in Pepakura when printing 

~Max out cut depth in the Cameo Cut options 

~Be sure to follow every single option laid forth in the PDF Guide provided, especially inverting the registration lines

~Have proper lighting 

After I experiment more and complete more crafts cut out by the Cameo I'll certainly condense these points into my own guide, but for now I'm just going to try and get finished with Camerupt. It was a rocky start, but it can only get better from here. Once I've fine tuned all this and find the best way to release packs for the Cameo, I'll certainly start doing that as well. 

-Brandon